Rome is simply better than anywhere else in the world. It's prettier, cleaner, and friendlier than New York. But, Nonna, class of 1923, reminds me, Mussolini would roll over if he saw what the déluge has led to-- walls covered with graffiti, lying taxi drivers, double, no, triple parking and paved-over piazzas.
Somewhere past Piazza del Popolo and before Stadio Olimpico I have found her Rome, the orderly Art Deco dream she smiles about while on the other side of the Atlantic. Happenstance, I pushed the pram into Villa Riccio, a beautifully maintained casa popolare that is a city-within-a-city and fantasyville of pedicured greenery, clear cut streets, well-parked bicycles and absolutely no scooters in the ingresso.